What is Gold-Filled Jewelry?
May 15th 2020
What is gold-filled jewelry? This is a question that comes up quite often.Don't worry though, we'll cover some of the differences today to clear some things up.
Gold-Filled products are "layered" gold. What exactly does that mean? Let's take a look at this diagram below:
So... what do we mean by "layered". Well, gold-filled jewelry is made by applying heat and pressure to gold over a base of jeweler's brass. The manufacturer bonds 2–3 layers of gold to the brass. The result is a gold product that is at minimum 5% gold by weight according to the United States Federal Trade Commission (FTC) standards. This layering process gives gold-filled jewelry more longevity than a standard gold-plated or gold vermeil product.
Now, gold plated jewelry and gold vermeil jewelry go through completely different process. They are both "plated" gold products — learn more about that process here.
To sum it up, gold plated and gold vermeil jewelry have a much thinner layer of gold over the base metal. Often, gold plate is 0.05% gold by weight. That's 100 times less gold by weight than gold-filled! Gold plating also tarnishes and rubs off easier.
Now, I mentioned earlier that gold-filled jewelry has to be at minimum 5% gold by weight according to FTC standards. Sometimes, you'll see it referred to as 1/20 as well. Weigh the jewelry, and 5% of that total weight should come from the gold in the product.
Why is Gold-Filled Jewelry Different Colors?
First, we need to explain the different kinds of GF products. You might see the products described as 12Kt GF or 14Kt GF. Those two numbers — 12Kt and 14Kt — refer to the karat rating of the gold bonded to the brass.
**Important Note** the karat rating is referring to the gold layered on the brass NOT the entire gold-filled product.
For solid gold items, there are a variety of karat ratings — 10Kt, 12Kt, 14Kt, 18Kt, 24Kt.
However, manufacturers in the USA work primarily in 3 karat ratings for their gold-filled products: 10Kt, 12Kt, or 14Kt. You will most often be buying a 12Kt or 14Kt GF product when shopping.
Recently, 18Kt GF jewelry products have popped up in the market. These jewelry products are not true gold-filled. However, that doesn't mean those products are not decent pieces of jewelry! This info is to help you stay informed as a shopper.
Color Differences
Sometimes, gold-filled jewelry products may look different. Two different 14Kt GF chains might be a different shade of gold. Why is that?
Well, it's because of the manufacturers. The color of the gold-filled product will change depending on who makes it and what batch it's from. The color might be more yellow. It might be darker. Or it might be more tawny (orange-y brown).
But, don't worry. Most manufacturers do their best to keep the colors consistent.
Caring for Gold-Filled Jewelry
The beauty of gold-filled jewelry over gold vermeil or gold plated jewelry is its longevity. With minimal (but proper) care, it can last you a lifetime.
Things to avoid
- Heavily Polluted Air / Smoke
- Chemicals (like sulfide fumes from nail salons)
- Bleach & Nail Polish remover
- Pools & Hot Tubs
- Sunscreens, Perfumes, Perfumed Lotions
It might sound like you can't put anything on your gold-filled jewelry, but these are just things to watch out for.
In my own experience, I've worn a GF necklace every day — without taking it off for showering or sleeping — and its color hasn't changed for months. No tarnishing, rust, or anything. Regardless, the list above is to help you keep the shine and luster as long as possible.
Cleaning
It can be really easy to clean your gold-filled jewelry. But, your jewelry will still get dirty from daily use (even if you avoid the chemicals we talked about). Now, here's what you can do to get the shine right back!
- Wash the jewelry with warm water and a gentle, light soap
- scrub it lightly with a soft brush (avoid scrubbing it like food stuck on a pan — you don't want to damage the layered gold)
- Scrub and rinse it off in lukewarm water
- Pat completely dry with a towel
That's it! Cleaning GF products are about as easy as washing your hands. Quick & easy, your jewelry will get its shine back in no time.
Possible Allergic Reactions
A key thing to remember when working with or buying any kind of jewelry is how it can react to your skin. In the case of gold-filled, most people can wear it without allergic reactions. Your body chemistry will let you know if you shouldn't wear it. If your skin turns green or darker — don't wear it! If you get a rash or break out — don't wear it!
You know your body best. Because gold-filled jewelry is heavily layered with gold over the base metal, you're less likely to have an allergic reaction to wearing it. But, it's always a good idea to know how your body reacts to things by trying yourself.
Where to find Gold-Filled Jewelry?
We've covered pretty much all the basics you need to know about gold-filled jewelry. At this point, you might be ready to work with the material. Or, you want to start wearing it.
You can find a wide selection of GF findings, chains, and wires in our shop.
Visit us at www.intheworksbeads.us to upgrade your jewelry designs!